We use a variety of kiting accessories to enhance our enjoyment of the hobby. Everything from sun-screen to the latest digital wind meter. In fact, I've made a list in reverse order of excitement! From my 'most precious toy' :-) right down to the utterly mundane.
I understand that if you were born after about 1985, you must be incredulous that something like a simple wind meter could possibly be 'exciting'. As in, 'how could it compare to the latest X-Box, Wii or 3D HD TV?
Some of us kiters just appreciate the simple things in life.
Some additional background info on the materials used in this hobby can be found near the bottom of this page.
Anyway, that list...
Some of the sections below contain links to pages which contain all sorts of extra detail on the topics. Get a cup of coffee, you might be a while!
It's most practical to use a wind gauge at rather close to ground level, since this just requires one of those short mini-tripods for cameras.
Of course, for a quick check, you can just hold it up at shoulder height for half a minute or so. Getting a rough reading like this allows you to accurately assess launching conditions. That's assuming you have done this enough times to figure out what wind strength suits you best! The reading for max gust strength might also affect your decision on which bundle to pull from your kite bag!
Although it's not always the case, the ground-level wind strength will often be somewhat lighter than the wind strength higher up. So by taking a reading at just above ground level, or at shoulder height, you can have a guess at what the wind is doing at 200 or 400 feet.
The difference between the average wind speed and the maximum gust strength is a measure of 'gustiness'. Around Adelaide, it's not unusual for winds to gust to more than 2 1/2 times the average, near ground level!
I'm recording wind speeds during every decent flight these days, with my Windtronic 2 omni-directional meter. Hence, this should eventually build up an intriguing year-round picture of local wind conditions.
One day I hope to take the meter up high, to compare winds aloft with ground level! This will be done by launching on a full line length, allowing the meter to get to the desired recording height quickly. For the sake of accuracy, the descent would also need to be quite quick. That could be achieved by a short jog underneath the line while letting it slip through a gloved hand.
A 10 minute flight would probably be enough to keep the wind strength average from changing too much due to the ascent and descent.
Finally, if you have ever had the urge to design or make your very own wind speed meter, follow that link for some more ideas!
Obviously the perfect companion for someone with a kiting website! But modern cameras make it easy for anyone with a photogenic kite or 2 to snap some great images. Flying contraptions don't last forever, and occasionally get lost, but images tend to hang around a lot longer - particularly if posted on the Web! Not mentioning any website in particular.
Video is easy to take too, these days. I usually end up zooming in quite a bit to get everything, including the tail, to fill the viewfinder. Panning around to follow the motion gets pretty automatic after a while. Most of this video would only be of interest to the owner. However, on this site, I have short clips to illustrate every kite design for which I publish instructions. Visitors tell me they appreciate actually seeing the finished craft in action. It would have to be more motivating than just seeing a still shot!
Again, one day I hope to take the camera up under some of my best lifters. For both still photos and video. Stay tuned!
Such a simple thing, attaching squares of insulation tape to a flying line. Little number-coded, or color-coded flags. A good compromise between weight and usefulness seems to be spacing the flags at 30 meter (100 feet) intervals.
I've done this for ages, for my 20 pound and 50 pound Dacron lines. After some practice, it gets easier to estimate lengths that lie between the flags. The main reason for doing this is to keep clear of the legal altitude limit. Of course, you have to also take into account the angle of the flying line!
A rule of thumb is that the altitude of something at 60 degrees-ish is about 4/5 of the line-length. Similarly, 45 degrees corresponds to about 2/3 of the line length. Roughly! Of course, it gets easy if a thermal takes your kite right overhead! 300 feet of line out then means almost exactly 300 feet of altitude.
flights using marked lines, you get a feel for the ideal line length for
each kite. For example, our tiny 1-Skewer designs tend to struggle a
bit with more than 60 meters (200 feet) of line out. I guess the
insulation tape markers don't help! If you wanted to, you could make
them very small though, to save weight.
If you are only half-serious about getting out and flying single-liners, you soon realize that just winding line onto a piece of stick just won't do!
A decent size winder lets you gather line
in at a fairly fast rate, so it doesn't take forever to bring a kite
down or pack the line away.
This seems like a good spot to summarize the types of reels and winders used by single-line fliers...
A note about those simplest reels and winders. Some of these are designed for quick letting-out of line. For example, even our 2-Skewer designs are relatively small, and hence it's practical to let line out quickly by just letting it come off the winder as fast as the wind carries the kite away. The winder is designed to let the loops of line slip straight off, when the winder is held a particular way. Some circular reels operate in a similar way.
Regarding the fancier reels, here's some info on some kite reels manufactured in China.
A broad brimmed hat is recommended by the Cancer Council of Australia to protect your face, neck and ears from harmful UV (Ultra-Violet) radiation from the sun. For almost complete protection, you can add a flap which flops over your ears and neck like a Legionnaire-style cap.
My son and I bought hats from a local Cancer Council stall, specifically for our kiting activities. A wide-brim with flap for me, and a suitably small Legionnaire Cap for my young son. There's mine up there in the photo. It's nice going out to fly without the ... ahem ... burning question of 'wonder if I'll get burnt today?' in the back of your head.
If the look is somewhat un-fashionable, what the heck - we're
serious fliers aren't we! There's no point in suffering for your art.
Actually, I often get away without using this measure by just dressing appropriately.
If the weather isn't very hot, then shoes, long trousers and long sleeves protects just about everything not covered by the broad-brimmed hat. An exception can be a tiny spot at the bottom of the V-neck of your shirt. I used to often come home completely unscathed except for a small pink patch right there! Solution: button-up or rub in a bit of sun-screen.
With the head covered, and wearing clothes that are shorter over the legs and arms, use sun-screen where-ever you have ever got burnt. Just common sense.
For me, the straps on my sandals act like a stencil for extreme UV to make an art-work out of my feet! Again, sunscreen is the solution.
Severe sun-burn can really spoil your kiting experiences.
This info isn't so practical, but read on if you really want to fill out your knowledge of the things that kites or lines are made of...
Most designs these days use fiberglass rods for spars and spreaders, and ripstop nylon for their sails. However, kites made from tissue or paper and bamboo for spars used to be much more common around the middle of the 1900s and before.
For single-liners, most fliers agree that Dacron line is best when taking cost into account.
Finding material for kite tails is easy with so many types of plastic bags around!
Curious about bags used in the hobby? Even if you're not, you might find the humble kite bag is not always so humble these days!
Finally, here's a general ramble on the topic of accessories! It covers a few different things that aren't part of our family's outings.