Not wearing a hat? Tsk tsk! At least my son was...
At least my son had a hat!
In fact, I've made a list in reverse order of excitement! From my 'most precious toy' :-) right down to the utterly mundane.
I understand that if you were born after about 1985, you must be incredulous
that something like a simple wind meter could possibly be 'exciting'.
As in, 'how could it compare to the latest X-Box, Wii or 3D HD TV?
Some of us kiters just appreciate the simple things in life.
Whether you like making your own kites, or just buy them online, it doesn't make much difference to the accessories you need.
Some additional background info on the materials used in this hobby can be found near the bottom of this page.
Anyway, that list...
- Wind Meter. Not absolutely vital, strictly speaking. But it definitely adds to the fun, and I never go out without it!
- Digital Camera. Occasionally,
some beautiful photo opportunities come up. More often, catching some
movement against a cloudy background makes for a nice kiting record
which tends to get more interesting with age.
- Length-marked Line. It's interesting, and sometimes useful, knowing how much line you have out. Really!
- Winder or Reel. Essential of course, but there is much choice available. Or make your own, as we do.
- Broad-brimmed Hat. With
the addition of a Legionnaire-style curtain around the sides and back
of your head, this is just the ultimate in protection from the sun's
- Sun-screen. Essential in some climates.
Some of the sections below contain links to pages which contain all sorts of extra detail on the topics. Get a cup of coffee, you might be a while!
( If you purchase the kite line recommended below I may receive a small commission - at no extra cost to you )
Do you need some kite line? This 3-pack of simple winders with 300ft lines from Amazon should be ideal. They are all ready to go with 50 pound line. This strength is good for bridles and flying lines for all the MBK kites up to the 1.2m (4ft) sizes.
My instructions for connecting a flying line don't mention swivel clips, but the swivels included in this product are good and strong. So go ahead and use them if you want to :-) Otherwise they can just be snipped off.
It's most practical to use a wind gauge at rather close to ground level, since this just requires one of those short mini-tripods for cameras.
Our Windtronic meter
Our Windtronic meter
Of course, for a quick check, you can
just hold it up at shoulder height for half a minute or so. Getting a
rough reading like this allows you to accurately assess launching
conditions. That's assuming you have done this enough times to figure
out what wind strength suits you best! The reading for max gust strength
might also affect your decision on which bundle to pull from your kite bag!
Although it's not always
the case, the ground-level wind strength will often be somewhat lighter
than the wind strength higher up. So by taking a reading at just above
ground level, or at shoulder height, you can have a guess at what the
wind is doing at 200 or 400 feet.
The difference between the
average wind speed and the maximum gust strength is a measure of
'gustiness'. Around Adelaide, it's not unusual for winds to gust to more
than 2 1/2 times the average, near ground level!
I'm recording wind speeds during every decent flight these days, with my Windtronic 2 omni-directional meter. Hence, this should eventually build up an intriguing year-round picture of local wind conditions.
One day I hope to take the meter up high, to compare winds aloft with ground level! This will be done by launching on a full line length, allowing the meter to get to the desired recording height quickly. For the sake of accuracy, the descent would also need to be quite quick. That could be achieved by a short jog underneath the line while letting it slip through a gloved hand.
A 10 minute flight would probably be enough to keep the wind strength average from changing too much due to the ascent and descent.
Finally, if you have ever had the urge to design or make your very own wind speed meter, follow that link for some more ideas!
Obviously the perfect companion for someone with a kiting website! But
modern cameras make it easy for anyone with a photogenic kite or 2 to
snap some great images. Flying contraptions don't last forever, and
occasionally get lost, but images tend to hang around a lot longer -
particularly if posted on the Web! Not mentioning any website in particular.
Video is easy to take too, these days. I usually end up zooming in
quite a bit to get everything, including the tail, to fill the
viewfinder. Panning around to follow the motion gets pretty automatic
after a while. Most of this video would only be of interest to the
owner. However, on this site, I have short clips to illustrate every
kite design for which I publish instructions. Visitors tell me they
appreciate actually seeing the finished craft in action. It would have
to be more motivating than just seeing a still shot!
Again, one day I hope to take the camera up under some of my best lifters. For both still photos and video. Stay tuned!
A Length-Marked Line
Such a simple thing, attaching squares of insulation tape to a flying line.
Little number-coded, or color-coded flags. A good compromise between
weight and usefulness seems to be spacing the flags at 30 meter (100
I've done this for ages, for my 20 pound, 50 pound and 100 pound Dacron lines.
After some practice, it gets easier to estimate lengths that lie between
the flags. The main reason for doing this is to keep clear of the legal
altitude limit. Of course, you have to also take into account the angle
of the flying line!
A rule of thumb is that the altitude of something
at 60 degrees-ish is about 90% of the line-length. Similarly, 45 degrees
corresponds to 3/4 of the line length. Roughly! Of course, it
gets easy if a thermal takes your kite right overhead! 300 feet of line
out then means almost exactly 300 feet of altitude.
flights using marked lines, you get a feel for the ideal line length for
each kite. For example, our tiny 1-Skewer designs tend to struggle a
bit with more than 60 meters (200 feet) of line out. I guess the
insulation tape markers don't help! If you wanted to, you could make
them very small though, to save weight.
Winder or Reel
If you are only half-serious about getting out and flying single-liners, you soon realize that just winding line onto a piece of stick just won't do!
A decent size winder lets you gather line in at a fairly fast rate, so it doesn't take forever to bring a kite down or pack the line away.
This seems like a good spot to summarize the types of reels and winders used by single-line fliers...
- Wind-on, wind-off reels. Simple
reels that do a good job of storing the line, but require you to
take-in or let-out line 1 loop at a time. Line is often sold on such a
- Flat winders. Simple rectangular winders that function just like those simple reels. Often sold with small simple children's kites.
- Spinnable reels. Same
principle as traditional Asian reels, where a spindle allows the flier
to rapidly let out line. Without too much tension in the line, it can be
reeled in quickly too by spinning the spindle.
- Crankable, braked reels. These
cost a bit more, particularly those that run on bearings! A crank
allows rapid and positive winding of line in or out. The brake can slow
the letting-out speed or even lock the line completely. Top of the range
models even feature a bell and a whistle. Just kidding!
A note about those simplest reels and winders.
Some of these are designed for quick letting-out of line. For example,
even our 2-Skewer designs are relatively small, and hence it's practical
to let line out quickly by just letting it come off the winder as fast
as the wind carries the kite away. The winder is designed to let the
loops of line slip straight off, when the winder is held a particular
way. Some circular reels operate in a similar way.
I just have to include this - a very handy idea emailed to me by a site visitor...
"Tim, I was looking at where I might get some material to make a winder like yours. Scrounging through my rubbish bin I found an empty (smelly) 2l plastic milk bottle. Suddenly it hit me, why make something that looks good when for free I could use the plastic bottle (after washing it out).
I tied the line onto the bottle handle, wound the line around the bottle, anchored the kite end of the line under the cap, and best of all filled the bottle with water. Now when I drop it I can catch up with it because the kite doesn't fly away as fast as with an ordinary winder. As I'm an oldie I need that sort of advantage.
Thought some other oldies might appreciate the idea. Thanks for getting me back into kites! I'm trying some of the ideas on kids after church.
Regarding the fancier reels, here's some info on some kite reels manufactured in China.
Wind Speed Handy Reference
A broad brimmed hat is recommended by the Cancer Council of Australia
to protect your face, neck and ears from harmful UV (Ultra-Violet)
radiation from the sun. For almost complete protection, you can add a flap which flops over your ears and neck like a Legionnaire-style cap.
son and I bought hats from a local Cancer Council stall, specifically
for our kiting activities. A wide-brim with flap for me, and a suitably
small Legionnaire Cap for my young son. There's mine up there in the
photo. It's nice going out to fly without the ... ahem ... burning
question of 'wonder if I'll get burnt today?' in the back of your head.
If the look is somewhat un-fashionable, what the heck - we're
serious fliers aren't we! There's no point in suffering for your art.
An update: An even better solution to the sun-burn problem is the Kalahari hat. This design has a front visor like a cap, but also a curtain which completely covers ears, throat and neck, when secured with a Velcro strip.
If the weather isn't very
hot, then shoes, long trousers and long sleeves protects just about
everything not covered by the broad-brimmed hat. An exception can be a
tiny spot at the bottom of the V-neck of your shirt. I used to often
come home completely unscathed except for a small pink patch right there! Solution: button-up or rub in a bit of sun-screen.
the head covered, and wearing clothes that are shorter over the legs
and arms, use sun-screen where-ever you have ever got burnt. Just common
A little-known point, but somewhat important:
On high-UV days, always wear sun-screen on your nose and cheeks, regardless of head-wear. You see, UV gets reflected off sand, water and particularly cumulus clouds. It will sneak under your wide-brim or visor and get you :-| People have actually got burnt this way, despite spending all day in the shade!
For me, the straps on my sandals act like a stencil for
extreme UV to make an art-work out of my feet! Again, sunscreen is the
Severe sun-burn can really spoil your kiting experiences. Not to mention other consequences later in life.
This info isn't so practical, but read on if you really want to fill
out your knowledge of the things that kites or lines are made of...
Most designs these days use fiberglass rods for spars and spreaders, and ripstop nylon for their sails. However, kites made from tissue or paper and bamboo for spars used to be much more common around the middle of the 1900s and before.
For single-liners, most fliers agree that Dacron line is best when taking cost into account.
Our own designs use cheap and widely-available materials. The material lists are slightly different, to suit either the dowel sparred or bamboo skewer sparred designs.
Finding material for kite tails is easy with so many types of plastic bags around!
Other Miscellaneous Stuff...
Curious about bags used in the hobby? Even if you're not, you might find the humble kite bag is not always so humble these days!
Finally, here's a general ramble on the topic of accessories! It covers a few different things that aren't part of our family's outings.